2 - 3/4" x 25' red oak iron-on edge banding, #16545
½ pint Cabot ebony interior stain, #83614
Quart Cabot satin polyurethane, #52282
2 - 3/4" oil-rubbed bronze cup pulls, #308716
1 - 1/4" x 2' x 4' oak plywood, #6211
Do-It-Yourself Entertainment Center
Made from a few sheets of plywood and some boards, this
entertainment center will get two thumbs up from the family. Plus, we’ll
teach you a few tricks along the way -- how to cut plywood, make doors,
and work with aluminum.
ENTERTAINMENT CENTER:
Prepare the Plywood
Step 1: Start by placing two sheets of 3/4" oak
plywood on top of each other on a work surface. Align the edges and lay
out the parts to be cut (Cutting Diagram).
Drive screws to attach the sheets together -- the screws are positioned
in waste areas and prevent the pieces from shifting as you cut the
blanks to size.
Note: All of the rough cuts will be made with a circular saw and later
trimmed on the table saw with the exception of cut 3, which is the exact
length of the top/bottom A. (These parts are too long
to easily cross-cut on the table saw. Make this cut slowly to minimize
chipping.) This process of breaking down a sheet can be used for any
project -- it’s easier and safer to handle smaller pieces on a table saw
instead of full sheets. By stacking the parts, you’re also getting two
parts from each cut and saving time in the process.
Step 2: Measure the width of the circular saw base from
the edge of the base to the edge of the blade and cut two spacers to
this length (Photo 1).
Step 3: Set up a straightedge -- a good 1"x4" or
1"x6" will do the trick. Place the two spacers against the first layout
line, bring the straightedge up to the spacers and clamp the
straightedge in position (Photo 2). (Using these two equal-length spacers will give you predictable and accurate results every time.)
Step 4: Remove the spacers and make the cut, running the base of the saw along the straightedge (Photo 3).
Step 5: Move to the table saw and cut the top/bottom panels A to width, the ends B to width and length, and the center shelves D to width and length (Cutting List). For the remaining plywood parts-the dividers C, the side shelves E, and the panels G and H- trim these parts to width only; you’ll trim them to length later.
Step 6: Plywood is typically thinner than its given
dimension -- 3/4"-thick plywood is typically 23/32". This may not seem
like much, but when you have two sheets in the same assembly, the
difference is 1/16". To cut the dividers C to length, subtract the thickness of two sheets of plywood from the length of the ends B to get the finished length of the divider; cut the divider to size.
Step 7: Drill pocket holes at the ends of the top/bottom, and the bottom face of the center shelves (Drawing 1).
Using a small handheld jig on larger panels makes drilling pocket holes
easier than taking these large panels to a jig fixed in position on a
bench (Photo 4).
Step 8: The plywood now needs edging to conceal the
layers that make up the material. Apply an iron-on veneer edging to all
of the panels as you proceed. Veneer only the front edges you’ll see
when the entertainment center is complete. Use a household iron on the
cotton setting to apply the edging. Allow the iron to warm up, cut the
veneer about 1" longer than needed, and apply the edging to the piece.
Use light pressure and keep the iron moving (Photo 5). After a few seconds, the veneer will be set and you can trim it with a utility knife. Now sand the panels smooth.
Step 9: Cut the backs F to size and
sand. (Hold off attaching the backs until the finish is applied -- it
will be easier to access all of the areas of the case without the back
in place.)
Assemble the case
Step 1: The top/bottom A need two
grooves for the aluminum door rails (these grooves are on the opposite
face from the pocket holes you drilled earlier). Cut the groove 3/8"
from the front edge (Drawing 2) using your table saw.
Test-fit the aluminum as you proceed. If the fit is too tight, slide the
table saw fence over about 1/32" and make another pass. Now repeat for
the remaining groove at 1-3/8" from the edge.
Tip: When cutting the grooves, make the cut in the
top and the bottom with every adjustment to the saw. This reduces set-up
time and improves accuracy.
Step 2: Assemble the center section of the case -- the dividers C and center shelves D -- upside down on your work surface. This allows easy access to the
pocket holes on the bottom of the shelves. Cut four 5"-long scraps to
use as spacers for assembling the center section (Drawing 1). Place the scraps on your bench, apply glue to the ends of the center shelves D, rest the shelf on the scraps, and drive the pocket screws through the shelf into the dividers (Photo 6).
Move the spacers up to the next shelf, position the second shelf, and
drive the screws to attach the second center shelf. Align the front
edges of these parts as you assemble the center section.
Step 3: Add the bottom to the center section. The
bottom is flush to the back edge of the dividers and centered on the
center assembly. Mark the position of the dividers on the bottom. Apply
glue to the dividers and rest the bottom in position. Apply clamps,
drill countersunk holes, and attach the bottom to the dividers.
Step 4: Flip the unit over and add the top, again centering it side to side on the center section with the back edges flush.
Step 5: Position the ends B against the top/bottom and secure the ends to the case assembly using glue and pocket-hole screws (Photo 7).
When securing the ends, align the front edges of the top/bottom with
the front edges of the ends. The offset at the back of the parts will
conceal the plywood edge of the backs F.
Step 6: Measure the distance from the dividers to the ends (Photo 8) and cut the side shelves E to this actual length. Drill pocket holes in the bottom face of the
shelves, add the veneer to the front edges, sand, and install the
shelves in the cabinet using pocket-hole screws.
Step 7: Cut the door panel G and the drawer panels H to size (Cutting List). Cut a groove down the center of the door face and the center of the drawer faces (Drawing 3). Set your table saw with the blade 1/8" above the table. This groove will give the illusion of a pair of doors or drawers.
Step 8: Drill the two 3/4" holes 3/8" deep for the cup
pulls in each of the door and drawer panels. Be sure to reference the
top of the doors to drill the holes in the proper location (Photo 9).
Runners, Doors, Drawers, and a Base
Step 1: Cut four aluminum bars measuring 1/8" x 3/4" to length so they fit in the grooves in the top/bottom A between the two ends B -- these will be the door panel runners. Slip the runners into the grooves and temporarily clamp them in position.
Step 2: Add a featherboard to the table saw and set the
blade to 3/8" above the table. Position the fence to cut a groove
centered in the thickness of the 3/4" plywood, about 5/16" away from the
blade. The featherboard will keep the panels pressed against the fence
for firm control as you pass the door across the saw blade (Photo 10).
Make a pass along the top edge of the first panel with the inside face
against the fence. Turn the panel so the outside face is against the
fence and make a second pass -- this will ensure the groove is centered.
Repeat for the other two panels.
Step 3: Lower the blade to 1/8" and groove the bottom edges of the door and drawer panels.
Step 4: Test the fit of the doors by engaging the top
of the door in the upper rail. Swing the bottom of the door in and lower
onto the bottom runner (Photo 11). Adjust the grooves as necessary for a smooth slide.
Step 5: Add the veneer edging to the sides of the
doors, and sand the panels smooth. Remove the veneer edging where the
grooves have been cut at the top and bottom edges of the panels.
Step 6: Cut the long rails I and cross rails J to length. Drill pocket holes (Drawing 4) and sand the parts. Assemble the base frame with the cross rails inset
from the ends of the long rails by 4" using glue and screws; set the
frame aside.
Step 7: Cut the wide top planks K and
narrow top plank L to length. Sand the parts smooth and ease all of the
edges with sandpaper. Easing the edges adds nice detail lines to the
completed top. It’s also easier to make a top this way instead of
edge-gluing the boards and trying to make them one perfectly sanded
surface.
Step 8: Cut the aluminum legs M to length (Cutting List), and then cut a 2"x2" piece of oak to 12" in length to create a blank for the feet N.
Rip the blank to fit inside the aluminum legs -- rip it once to width
and then a second time to thickness. When the blank slips into the legs,
cut the blank into four equal-length parts for the feet.
Step 9: Sand all of the parts one last time and apply a
finish. The top, base frame, and feet are all stained a deep ebony
color. When the stain has dried, apply two coats of clear finish to all
of the parts, including the case and doors. Apply one coat, allow it to
dry, and lightly sand with a 320-grit sanding sponge. Apply a second
coat to all of the parts. For the top planks, add a third layer of
finish for extra protection.
Step 10: Using a buffing pad, sand the aluminum runners
for the door and drawers, and install into the case using 5-minute
epoxy. Mix up a small amount of epoxy following the manufacturer’s
instructions, apply to the edge of the aluminum in 4 or 5 small spots,
and fit into the case. Tap the rails with a block of wood to make sure
they are seated and clamp the top runners while the epoxy sets.
Final Assembly
Step 1: Drill 1/8" pilot holes through the top A for attaching the top planks K and L(Drawing 4 & 5).
Place the top planks with the ends aligned on your work surface with
the best face down (place them on a drop cloth or moving blanket to
protect the finish). Now flip the case upside down and center it on the
top planks.
Step 2: Mark the location of the holes in the top on
the planks. Remove the case, drill 1/2" deep pilot holes at the marked
locations, and then attach the top planks to the case using screws (Photo 12).
Step 3: Position the backs F against the case, predrill for the panhead screws, and secure. The
center is open to allow for air circulation and for access to wires for
your electronic components. If you need access to the side areas for
wiring, drill a 1" hole in the back in the area of the side
compartments.
Step 4: Position the base assembly on the bottom of the cabinet and secure using pocket screws (Photo 13).
Step 5: Drill 3/16" holes through the legs M for securing to the case (Photo 14, Drawing 6).
After drilling the holes, position the legs on the entertainment
center; using the 3/16" holes as a guide, drill pilot holes into the
case and long rails. Buff the aluminum with a scuffing pad, and then
secure to the case. The top holes into the case need 1-1/2"-long screws,
and the bottom holes into the long rails need 2"-long screws.
Step 6: Slip one foot into one of the legs. Use a
scrap of the 1-1/2"-thick material to use as a spacer to ensure the feet
project the same amount from each leg (Photo 15).
Position the foot, drill a pilot hole, and secure with a screw; repeat
for the remaining feet and legs. Drill the pilot holes on the back face
of the legs to hide the screws from the front of the entertainment
center.
Step 7: Place cup pulls into the holes you drilled in the door panel G and drawer panels H. Tap the pulls into the holes with a hammer and scrap block.
Step 8: Flip the case upright and install the doors and
drawer panels. The drawer panels go onto the back runners and cover the
side openings; the door panel goes on the front runner and covers the
center opening of the case.
Step 9: Now load up the electronics, sit back, and watch a movie while you admire your handiwork.
